Yvette Burgat

Hedwig Erb

Therese Holliger

Werner Muelli

Dominique Reinmann

Tomas Kronberg

Ernst Gysin

My hikers this year came by train from Narvik to Gällivare and seemed to be in good condition after a visit to the North Cape. One man, however, was somewhat tired and sleepy, he sat half-asleep in a corner of the compartment and had a canteen of water in his arms. Upon closer acquaintance with him, it turned out that his name was Werner Mülli and he had pain here and there, including in his kidneys, and therefore he should drink a lot of water.

Lapland tourism in the 1960s was still relatively undeveloped and there were not many large tourist groups on Kungsleden. However, STF was very interested in foreign tourists and one could book overnight places for larger groups. The cabin hosts were informed well in advance and usually had an entire room reserved for us. The shared room initially raised certain concerns among the female participants, but after a couple of nights all shyness was gone and when we eventually reached Abisko and were divided into separate rooms, the question was:

- Könnten wir auch hier ein gemeinsames Zimmer haben?

- Unfortunately, unfortunately! I had to disappoint them, at the tourist stations civilization prevailed and other laws applied - no girls in the rooms.

From Gällivare we went to Porjus where we boarded a small boat that took us up to Stora Sjöfallet. We viewed the sights and continued to "km 57". Our backpacks were loaded onto a small narrow-gauge railway trolley and we ourselves walked the 1.5 km up to the next boat landing. We also had time to both eat the packed lunch and view Stora Sjöfallet. From there, the Akka boat went all the way to Saltoluokta Tourist Station on the southern shore of Lake Akkajaure.

We had some time left until dinner, so I suggested to Werner, Jürg, and a couple of other participants that we should take a sauna bath in a sauna that was right next to the water. When we entered the sauna, we were a bit confused as to whether it would be possible to get a bath. Some boards in the lower part were missing and it didn't look like we would be able to get any steam. But the stones were hot, and after throwing a couple of generous scoops of water on the stone pile, the steam rose and it became properly hot. It was a successful maneuver; the sauna was hot and the water in Lake Stora Akkajaure was cold. When we jumped into the lake, the temperature change was like a shock, which probably scared away Werner's pain. Later we also had several opportunities to continue our sauna exercises in Abisko, and over the years Werner has become a real sauna enthusiast. He has even bought a sauna kit from Finland and installed it in his basement. Ann-Marie and I have had several opportunities to bathe at his place. Nowadays, he gathers his Zollikon gang on Sunday afternoons and they take a bath together.

The following year (1967) Werner came again, and this time we did a hike on our own with a number of Swiss, some from the previous year and some new. The journey went from Kebnekajse over the Kaskasavagge wind shelter – Vistas cabin and further to the final station in Nikkaluokta. It became one of the more memorable hikes, wet and strenuous.

Over time, a very good relationship developed between Werner and me. In 1968 he brought a girl with him and they got engaged at our place, before setting off on a Lapland hike. For the most part, mountain travelers tend to depict too much of the hardships and achievements they have made and often forget the moments of pleasant experiences and positive incidents. In 1968, together with Tomas, I led the group 'Narvik' - from Kvikkjokk to Saltoluokta and from there further towards Abisko Mountain Station.

The hikes in the 60s were not as intense and the equipment not as streamlined as it has become today. Backpacks with frames had started to appear, and we each bought one – Tomas and I. Later, I made backpacks myself. I got help with the frames at Studsvik Active Workshop. Lennart Ekholm and Sven Uggla have been helpful. There were several backpacks: among others a small bag suitable for Maria when she, in 1969 as a 12-year-old, accompanied on a hike from Kvikkjokk to Skjombotten in Norway.

The Swiss had their own model. Their backpacks were quite narrow but tall, well adapted for hiking in steep mountains and narrow passages where it was important not to spread out too much when meeting on the narrow alpine trails. Mountain hikes mostly take place on dry ground, while in Lapland there are many streams, depressions, and lowlands to cross. In the brochures, it stated boots, but it happened that some came with hiking boots and that caused some trouble.

On the hike, there were two ladies from the French part of Switzerland: Yvette Burgat and Dominique Rheinmann. The smoking propaganda was not as intense then as now, and both Werner and Dominique were smokers. Dominique was satisfied with cigarettes while Werner smoked cigarillos, and it seemed as if he never had any matches. When he took out his stink sticks, one heard: Dominique, le feu, s'il vous plaît! Yvette did not smoke, but was an eager photographer and despite this had the smallest pack. She seemed to be a very experienced hiker.

The hike went without any major difficulties, we were lucky with the weather.